Lexus 43410-0W180 Shaft Assy, Front Drive, RH

Before starting this procedure, obtain a new axle shaft/hub nut. Begin by disconnecting the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle, and support it securely on jackstands before removing the wheel. Unstake and remove the axle shaft/hub nut, bracing a prybar between two wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link at the suspension strut and the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle, then remove the nuts and bolt securing the balljoint to the control arm, prying the control arm down to separate the components. Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle and the ABS harness clamp at the suspension strut. To loosen the axle shaft from the hub splines, tap the end of the axle shaft with a soft-faced hammer or brass punch; if stuck, it may be necessary to remove the brake disc and use a two-jaw puller. Place a drain pan underneath the transaxle to catch any leaking lubricant. If applicable, remove the case protector over the inner CV joint. Pull out on the steering knuckle to detach the axle shaft from the hub, taking care to protect your hands from the sharp ring around the CV joint. For right axle shaft assemblies, remove the center bearing lock bolt and snap-ring, then pull the splined inner end of the intermediate shaft out of the differential side gear. For the left axle shaft, carefully pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle. If necessary to move the vehicle while the axle shaft is out, place a large bolt with washers through the hub and tighten securely. Installation is the reverse of removal, ensuring to push the left axle shaft sharply inward to seat the retaining ring, tighten the center bearing lock bolt for the right axle shaft/intermediate shaft assembly, use a new axle shaft/hub nut and stake it, install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts. Finally, check the transaxle lubricant and add if necessary, and check the intermediate shaft bearing for smooth operation, replacing it if it feels rough or sticky.

Transmission may be to the front wheels through two axle shafts, in which the inner ends are affixed to the transaxle and directly splayed to the side gears of the differential. The outer ends are splined to the front hubs and fastened with a large nut; the left side axle shaft is shorter while that on the right side is longer and provided with an intermediate shaft carried by a bearing. The inner ends of the axle shafts are enabled with sliding constant velocity joints where they can rotate in angular motion; axial motion is also possible where the axle shaft moves with the wheel; a tripod bearing and a joint tulip where the joint slides in and out. Boot joints can be unbolted and are easily downloadable in the event that a boot is rendered useless, however, in case of damage of the parts, it comes as a complete unit that needs to be replaced. Each outer joint is made up of a ball bearing between an inner and outer race where the former can move in one plane angularly but cannot move axially. It is also good that the boots of such joints should be checked for any signs of damages or leaking lubricants because as much as possible CV joint boots when they are torn should be replaced promptly because they compromise the joints section. Replacing boots call for the demand of axle shaft. Signs that may indicate a car's CV joints are worn or damaged include leaks in the lubricants, noises in the form of clicking sounds when the car is turning and clunks that occur when accelerating after coasting, vibrating at high speeds. To check for wear, one has to pick an axle at a time and move it from side to side as much as possible while holding the CV joint housings with the other hand, to feel for loose splines, or sloppy joints, and at the same time, one should look at the axle shaft shafts to determine if they are cracked, dented or distorted.